Yana Paskova - Photojournalist, Writer, Photo Editor

Visual Project Management | Grant Work: Where Women Rule - Widows of Varanasi

"Where Women Rule" is my successfully executed fundraising initiative to document the world's fascinating all-female societies, starting in the widow communities of Varanasi, India—through the support of a 2018 Getty Images/Panasonic Lumix grant, the 2019 Leica Camera USA Women Foto Project Award, and a 2021 National Geographic Society grant. Some of my multimedia works were also exhibited at Photoville 2020 in Brooklyn, New York. 

- Where Women Rule 

Where do women rule and where are they a commodity? How do women develop in a near-absence of men or patriarchy? My project aims to be a visual and sociological look at what happens when cultural norms of gender are amended or removed—via the all-female societies across the world, where women gather for shelter or in matriarchy—leading us to new notions of femininity and masculinity, human bonds, family, and the fluid boundaries of identity.  

Not in recent history have communities where women seek shelter, independence or support, been more relevant to our cultural climate and growth. Discarding toxic, inflexible gender roles is an evergreen and pressing idea, as it is what the modern family unit aims to look like, increasingly across the world.  

I aim to discover the intersect of these women’s stories as individuals and as a collective amidst arresting visual landscapes, with special attention to perseverance in the face of rejection and confidence in shedding convention. My intent for this project's findings is that they serve as an immersive experience not just for consumers of visual culture, but also as a research and educational tool—hopefully starting with the youngest minds, where developing the concept of equality matters most. Ultimately, I'd like to build connections between humans that overcome the limiting societal constructs of gender and geography. 

— 

- Widows of Varanasi  

(Supported by a 2018 Getty Images/Panasonic Lumix grant) 

Thousands of widows flock to Varanasi, a holy city on the crescent-shaped bank of India's Ganges River, often in escape of family that has become abusive or neglectful after the loss of their husbands. While widows' property rights and access to resources are protected by law, enduring superstitions that paint them as unlucky and unworthy can override. There are the widows who remain unaware of their rights, those who subordinate themselves to custom to keep familial or social peace, and the ones who have no other option. And so, women of all ages gather in Varanasi ashrams, trailing saris in all white, the color meant to strip them of their femininity.  

Yet, more widows have started to defy society's strong identity ties to marriage and elect to stay with their families instead of flee, and demand access to what's theirs. Some who come to Varanasi redefine how their individuality fits in with spiritual tradition, by allowing themselves to celebrate holidays and wear color—despite the expectation of white, the hue of death and asexuality. Others say they seek out the ashrams for spiritual dedication, instead of as a last resort. While isolation and uncertainty accompanies their journeys, at least in the ashrams they find shelter, a daily meal, and a community of women of the same circumstance—in other words, a second home. 

  • Varanasi_Vid_2
  • Nanki Mata, a widow who estimates she is 75 years old, poses for a portrait in the Durga Kund Help Line ashram in Varanasi, India on January 08, 2019. Nanki says she has spent two years in this ashram, after her husband was thrown in prison for getting in a fight, and passed away from injuries to his body. Her daughter got married, so no one looked after her - then the daughter died as well. She has two other children, but didn't want to go her son's or her other daughter's in-laws because she says that's not how tradition works here. She is left with no contact with her relatives, nor was she aware that she had legal rights on her property, so whatever little her husband had, was taken away by his brothers. {quote}My husband is not here, how would I fight?{quote} she says.
  • Hindu decor at Pashupatinath Ashram in Varanasi, India on January 06, 2019.
  • (L-R) Widows Shakuntala Devi, who estimates she is 70 years old, and Jamuna Mata, who estimates she is 90 years old, interact at Birla ashram in Varanasi, India on January 05, 2019.
  • (L-R) Widows Shakuntala Devi, who estimates she is 70 years old, and Durga Devi, who estimates she is 60 years old, pose for a portrait at Birla ashram in Varanasi, India on January 05, 2019. Durga, originally from Rajasthan, is a god-sister and cousin with Shakuntala. Durga says of her friendship with Shakuntala: {quote}On one side is the river Ganga, and on the other, Baba Vishwanath (Lord Shiva.) We are right in between - there isn't a better place.{quote}Durga says she did not want to live with her son following her husband's death, as she wanted to be closer to the holy river Ganges and Lord Shiva. She often visits her son, who insists that she stay at home and looks after her well. But she says she prefers the ashram.
  • Meena Devi, 78, a widow, falls deep in thought at Rak Kuti ashram in Varanasi, India on January 07, 2019. Meena is originally from Nepal, and has lived in the ashram for the past 25 years. Before that, she lived in the same building as Sita Devi, 52, and her mother-in-law, Goma Devi, 96, who now also occupy this ashram. Meena is a child widow. {quote}Maybe I was cursed and I would have been forbidden to attend any functions because my husband died at a young age,{quote} she says. So with the help of relatives she moved here to live among other widows. She didn't want to marry again after her husband's death.
  • Meena Devi, 78, a widow, begins to pray at Rak Kuti ashram in Varanasi, India on January 07, 2019. Meena is originally from Nepal, and has lived in the ashram for the past 25 years. Before that, she lived in the same building as Sita Devi, 52, and her mother-in-law, Goma Devi, 96, who now also occupy this ashram. Meena is a child widow. {quote}Maybe I was cursed and I would have been forbidden to attend any functions because my husband died at a young age,{quote} she says. So with the help of relatives she moved here to live among other widows. She didn't want to marry again after her husband's death.
  • A man walks by Ratan Devi Mata, 82 years old, as she moves through the streets of Varanasi, India in a bent position on January 05, 2019. Ratan is originally from Nepal. After her husband left her for another woman a day following their wedding, she tried to live with her in-laws, but daily fighting motivated her to join Birla ashram instead. Ratan believes she will attain Moksha (release from the cycle of rebirth) if she dies here. She receives a monthly pension of 2,000 rupees from Sulabh International.
  • Varanasi_Vid_12
  • Shakuntala Devi, who estimates her age to be 70 years old, at Birla ashram in Varanasi, India on January 05, 2019. She wears color despite the expectation of widows to don only white.Shakuntala is originally from Varanasi, married in Agra and returned in 2005, some time after her husband passed away and her daughter got married (who still visits her.)  She had a photo of her husband but got rid of it as she didn't want to hold on to any memories - she says she believes that what's left behind should be left behind. On widows' garb, she says it should be their choice to wear whatever color they want, not just the traditional white, meant to symbolize death and asexuality. She uses the 2,000 rupee a month pension that she receives from Sulabh International for her expenses.{quote}The winter has been cold this year and I used 900 rupees to buy a blanket. Sometimes when I am left with no money, I take help from my daughter, even though she doesn't have any money as her husband doesn't have a regular job. The good thing is that I don't have to do any work now as my body doesn't allow me to work anymore.{quote}
  • Usha Mishra, a widow who is unsure of her age, at Birla ashram in Varanasi, India on January 05, 2019. Usha's in-laws passed away a few years before her husband, who died of a heart attack, and all her other relatives were too far away and with family. She didn't have anyone to pay for her expenses, so she felt she had no other option but to come to the ashram, as Sulabh International provides 2,000 rupees as a monthly pension.
  • Varanasi_Vid_3
  • Munni Devi, who estimates she is 90 years old, sitting behind the mosquito net of her bed becomes emotional while talking about her life, at Durga Kund Help Line ashram in Varanasi, India on January 08, 2019. Munni says she doesn't remember the age of her husband - he was a few older than her. A mother of two, one of her sons was kidnapped at the age of 12 and the other son died in an accident. {quote}I worked so hard to educate him hoping that one day he will become an engineer and take care of me. But God had other plans. I have no one, I can't cry to anyone,{quote} she says, adding that she was left out on the streets following her husband's death, as her landlord sold her rented home. {quote}Now I have been here for some time, thinking about why God did this to me and passing my time.{quote}
  • Varanasi_Vid_7
  • Munni Devi, who estimates she is 90 years old, sitting behind the mosquito net of her bed becomes emotional while talking about her life, at Durga Kund Help Line ashram in Varanasi, India on January 08, 2019. Munni says she doesn't remember the age of her husband - he was a few older than her. A mother of two, one of her sons was kidnapped at the age of 12 and the other son died in an accident. {quote}I worked so hard to educate him hoping that one day he will become an engineer and take care of me. But God had other plans. I have no one, I can't cry to anyone,{quote} she says, adding that she was left out on the streets following her husband's death, as her landlord sold her rented home. {quote}Now I have been here for some time, thinking about why God did this to me and passing my time.{quote}
  • Ratan Devi Mata, 82 years old, talks about her husband at Birla ashram in Varanasi, India on January 05, 2019. Ratan is originally from Nepal. After her husband left her for another woman a day following their wedding, she tried to live with her in-laws, but daily fighting motivated her to join the ashram instead. Ratan believes she will attain Moksha (release from the cycle of rebirth) if she dies here. She receives a monthly pension of 2,000 rupees from Sulabh International.
  • Shanti Devi, a 72-year-old widow, sings and prays in the Durga Kund Help Line ashram in Varanasi, India on January 08, 2019.
  • Varanasi_Vid_8
  • Varanasi_Vid_11
  • A widow exits her room at Pashupatinath Ashram in Varanasi, India on January 06, 2019.
  • (L-R) Widows Meena Devi, 78, Sita Devi, 52, and Savitri Devi, who estimates she is 80 years old, sing and and pray at Rak Kuti ashram in Varanasi, India on January 07, 2019. Sita's mother-in-law, Goma Devi, who estimates she is 90 years old, also lives in the ashram.
  • Ratan Devi Mata, 82 years old, enters Birla ashram in Varanasi, India on January 05, 2019. Ratan is originally from Nepal. After her husband left her for another woman a day following their wedding, she tried to live with her in-laws, but daily fighting motivated her to join the ashram instead. Ratan believes she will attain Moksha (release from the cycle of rebirth) if she dies here. She receives a monthly pension of 2,000 rupees from Sulabh International.
  • Varanasi_Vid_6
  • A widow looks out onto passersby and street traffic from the courtyard of the Durga Kund Help Line ashram in Varanasi, India on January 08, 2019.
  • Sonakshi Devi, a widow, lies on the roof of the Durga Kund Help Line ashram in Varanasi, India on January 08, 2019.
  • Varanasi_Vid_9
  • Varanasi_Vid_1
  • Meena Devi, 78, a widow, pets a cow outside of Rak Kuti ashram in Varanasi, India on January 07, 2019. Meena is originally from Nepal, and has lived in the ashram for the past 25 years. Before that, she lived in the same building as Sita Devi, 52, and her mother-in-law, Goma Devi, 96, who now also occupy this ashram. Meena is a child widow. {quote}Maybe I was cursed and I would have been forbidden to attend any functions because my husband died at a young age,{quote} she says. So with the help of relatives she moved here to live among other widows. She didn't want to marry again after her husband's death.
  • INTRO
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    • Where Women Rule - Widows of Varanasi
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